An Amazing Meal...

This post will perhaps leave some baffled or complexed as to the reasoning of it's nature. I am am writing about one of the best meals in my career. Not one of high refinement. Not one that cost several hundred dollars each. And certainly not one in which one needed to wait all day long for a reservation only to get shunned away only to try again next year. No, this meal was one that touched the soul. It made me think. Think about life and the pursuit of happiness. It made me think about what is important and why I am in this crazy f*ed up business and why I do what I do. To make others happy and experience that sense of fulfillment and nourishment. To bring forth the meaning of hospitality towards others. A couple nights ago, I experienced one of the most amazing meals of my career! My son's and I had just went to see a movie and as such, we opted to stop in for a bite at...hold your breath...the Olive Garden. The two twenty-somethings at the host stand were happy and greeted us in a nice manner with plenty of hospitality and warmth, not something you witness every day at even the better of the restaurants around. We were sat and quickly met by our server. We actually enjoyed the service quite well throughout the evening. The food was as one would expect, (for any of us that have ever been to such an establishment)...simple...predictable...very edible and surprisingly quite flavorful. However, this is not the real focus of the story mind you. Well, in truth somewhat, as it is THE meal I am speaking about. What I am babbling on about is that the meal~ a chicken breast labeled as a parmigiana with spaghetti noodles tossed with a marinara sauce and grated Parmesan cheese~ not bad, but it was not eaten that evening and wrapped up to take home. What happened next is what the point is. There always seems to be a homeless woman every time I drive by, standing right on the corner where a particular off-ramp and the freeway intersect when entering into West Seattle and tonight did not disappoint. There she was, hovering over a sign she made referring to something about Jesus and food, and not necessarily in that order. She almost seemed in a daze, but perhaps it was the lack of sleep as it was nearing midnight. Strange she was still there. Most street folk are long gone by 9pm as traffic dwindles long before then. Not this die hard trooper. There she was...hard at work looking for money, food, support, a blanket, or perhaps some much needed words of encouragement. We came to a complete halt as we pulled my SUV over to the side. We rolled our windows down and shared some small cordial talk and then my youngest son reached out the window and handed her the "doggy box" of chicken parmigiana and spaghetti. The look in her eyes and the smile on her face told it all. She was so grateful. It was truly a memorable moment for me. There is not many other more pleasing feelings personally than to help somebody in more need than you. It reminded me of my childhood, tagging along with my mother helping others and one that I hope will stay with my boys for years to come. To help others is a gift that we all need to share in. God bless.

Fire in Action...

Fire Roasted Black Bass~ laid right over the flame

Searing Foie Gras on a plancha grill

A few more shots of cooking "on fire". TK has Under Pressure, I have...On Fire! Just a couple other angles and nuances to get the feel of the flame. Hard to sometimes get the greatest shot as the heat was freakin intense (think about 800-1000 degrees) and the light of the fire gave my digital camera a serious run for it's money.

Seared Scallops a'la Plancha~ built a "kiln" of coals right underneath.

Freakin intense heat and awesomely hot surface.

Spit Roasted Lobster a"la Broche"

Black Bass cooking

The Burning Beast...revisited

“la cocina del fuego” for fire-roasted food junkies~ or so it is called for this outing…

And so it was, yet another night at the infamous fire pit, savoring the primal moment and cooking our hearts out as if in a land and time from the first dawn of man. Another wonderful and almost spiritual experience cooking over the blistering heat of flame and fire for the elite few who were able to dine there. In this case~ an auction package complete with a 7-course feast cooked entirely over the fire(with the exception of a few garnishes, condiments, and such) wonderful Betz Family Wines, beautiful ambiance and gracious service in a “one-of-a-kind” setting one could only recreate at home on a much lower scale. If you read back through the historic posts of this blog, you will discover various passion filled occasions of cooking over this beast of heat, and each one a bit different. The moods change…the weather presents itself differently…the group chemistry altered…the simple desire to cook the ingredients has transformed…and our evolution of skill as craftsmen working over an open fire has taken place. We learn through our mistakes. We take notes and think about the challenges as a cook when working in this type of kitchen…one without the luxury of space, crew, resources and equipment. We aspire to refine our work and do better as cuisiniers so as to continue to push forward and never settling for good enough, because it isn’t.

We set the stage on the hearth of this grand fireplace and created the extension of the “chef’s table” (in the kitchen) which by the way, was in full overdrive of it’s own last night, ran by our executive sous chef; Jim C. who had some wicked mojo of his own going on. Intimate, cozy, and warm. Exhilarating with passion and focus, the guests ate and drank as they watched this winter inspired menu unfold before them. We were “on fire” as we sweated through each wonderful course with the greatest of care and pride. There is nothing quite like this type of cooking and not one that you see every day, hell…not even once a year for most. I am too fortunate to be able to do this every couple months. Here is what transpired during the 4-hour feast~
For the reception, we passed some fresh baked Gougeres filled with Yellow Buck Camembert and Truffle Oil and some fresh Portuguese Sardines, which were dipped in buttermilk and spicy cornmeal, then fried and served with a little puddle of Yuzu-Fennel Pollen Aioli. Enter the degustation…

Amuse~ Spit Roasted Maine Lobster “Tournedo” with chilled Lobster-Citrus Salad, American Sturgeon Caviar and a Tangerine-Champagne Gelee

Warmed~ Braised Beef Short Rib-Horseradish Terrine, warmed Celery-Walnut Salad, Celery Root Remoulade, Onion Mustard Crème Fraiche and a Fig-Walnut Dressing

Seared~ Diver Scallops & Hudson Valley Foie Gras a’la Plancha, Fire Roasted Apples, Squash Sponge and a Butterscotch Caramel


Barbecued~ Black Bass, with Skillet Roasted Sunchokes, Cipolline Onions, Hazelnuts and a Red Wine Braised Frog Leg-Black Olive Sauce
Hearth Warmed~ Wild Mushroom Ragout, “Kiln Baked” Sweetbread-Tasso Sausage, Salsify and a Potato-Garlic Foam
Plank Roasted~ Douglas Fir Moularde Duck Breast, DF Honey Lacquered, Baby Turnips, Ember baked Fingerling Potatoes and a Wild Huckleberry Sauce
Potlatch Roasted~ American Bison Tenderloin, Cacao Nibs, Brussel Sprouts, Smoked Pecans, Celery Root Puree, and Blackberry-Smoked Chocolate Essence
Grilled~ Hazelnut Crusted Picandou Chevre & Delice d’Argental Cows Milk Cheese, Quince Jam, Preserved Bing Cherries, Poached Pears and Heather Honey

Fire’s Out~ Earl Grey Chocolates

Tastes of Passion...

"The Man" and I

That is what I experienced while dining solo at Kevin Gillespie's Woodfire Grill in downtown Atlanta. For those that are not in the know, Kevin was one of the final runner-up ass-kickers in this last season of Top Chef. Throughout the season, most everyone I know that was paying attention, commented on the fact that they all felt Kevin's cooking was honest, tasty looking, sincere, simple and full of his love of cooking and great ingredients. Although he did not win the final smack-down, many felt he should have. Each day of filming, he seemingly left the bullshit at the door and cooked his heart out. Sure, some others did, but it was truly evident in Kevin's cooking that he displayed much more of the passion, which ultimately is how I wound up eating at his restaurant just outside of the high fashion and falutin' Buckhead district, albeit in a bit of a risque and shady locale. But hell, it was all about the food, not what was going on the corner or in a parking lot. Passion, desire and craft exuding him, this is really what inspired me to dine there while visiting my new-found family in this huge metropolis in the south. It is all about working with local farmers, ranchers, artisans and fishermen practicing great sustainability and stewardship, and using the freshest ingredients in season for Kevin. That is how I roll as well. Since I only managed to land the last seat at the bar, as reservations were packed to the gills, I was not able to experience the ambiance of the full restaurant...no worries! Again, it was all about the food for me. I commented that I could be standing in the kitchen or leaning against the wall on the back loading dock to eat and have a great time so long as the food is stellar, which it did not disappoint. They have a nice ala carte menu as well as a nightly 5-course "blind" tasting menu in which the chef and kitchen team cook for you without you knowing what is coming next. I "sold" that to several folks around the bar who were a bit unsure and squeamish of that format but by the end of their meal, they were stoked! I told the server that I wanted the "treatment"...the full deal...the best! Since they would not tell me what was on the tasting, I simply said "make sure there is foie gras", and "I would like several other courses whatever the chef wants to cook and let's throw in a cheese as well". By the end, I also had added a signature octopus dish and a chocolate addition to dessert. 10 courses later and many great tastes, I was satiated, stimulated and mentally fulfilled. His and his team's cooking rocked. The beauty lied in the simplicity and execution of each dish with the utmost attention to perfection and taste. For those able to experience Kevin's cooking, I highly encourage you to to do so. You will not be disappointed. Here are the tastes of passion I experienced during the four hours of degustation that night...

Woodfire Grilled Pecan-Raisin & Rosemary Sourdough Breads

Herbs de Provence Butter

~

Amuse

Carolina Rice & Black Eyed Pea Fritter, Collard Gribiche, Hot Sauce

(Elderflower-Herb Boisson)

~

Spice Braised Baby Organic Carrots

Sweet & Sour Cabbage, Currants, Laura Chenel Goat Cheese, Carrot Coulis

~

Seared Georges Bank Scallop & Confit of Shrimp

Mixed Radish Carpaccio, Clementines, Olio Nuevo

~

Washington State Kushi Oysters

Pickled Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Cauliflower, Fennel Cream

"Liqueur Naturel"

~

Seared Sonoma Foie Gras

Toasted Brioche, Persimmons Puree, Braised Pistachios, Buckwheat, Chervil

(Grapefruit Juice, Cardamom Syrup, Bitters, Meyer Lemon Mocktail)

~

Woodfire Grilled Bobwhite Quail

Honey Glazed, Potato Emulsion, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Baby Fingerling Potatoes

~

Berkshire Pork "3 Ways"

Wood Grilled Loin, Fig Glazed Braised Belly, Pulled Shoulder & Cracklings

Anson Mills Farro, Caramelized Endive, Fig-Apple Puree

~

Chilled Octopus Salad Sous Vide

Hickory Grilled & Basted

Coleslaw, Crispy Shallots, Kevin's Own Terminus BBQ Sauce

~

New Zealand Windsor Bleu

Clover Honey and Honeycomb, Micro Greens

~

Apple Shortcake Bread Pudding

Roasted Lady Apples, Cinnamon Meringue, Apple Caramel

(Elderflower-Citrus Bitters Drink with Blis Maple Brushing)

~

Warm Dark Chocolate "Pain Perdue"

Pistachios, Cacao Nib Creme Fraiche, Dark Chocolate Ganache, Feuillatine

(Cappuccino)

Mind Candy...

That is about the only thing that comes to my mind at this point of the food we cooked tonight for the chef's table as I did not take any pictures for you to see(eye candy), record any of the sounds for you to hear (ear candy) or bring home any of the tastes for you to eat(simply enough...candy!). SO, with that said, you will just have to trust me. Or not. Whatever. Tonight was the first chef's table we have cooked since before Thanksgiving. It was somewhat subdued, yet fun, tasty and hopefully inspiring for those around me. We ventured into some new ideas and thoughts, and yet at the same time reintroduced familiar ones. Here is the menu and how it played out...

~Amuse~

Warm Truffle Custard "en Chemise d' Oeuf"

with Lobster-Salsify Salad, Edamame and Truffle Oil

~

"Winter Degustation"

Braised Beef Shortrib & Horseradish Terrine, Celery Root Salad, Candied Walnuts

Mustard Creme Fraiche, Shaved Celery...

Frog Legs Sous Vide, Braised Baby Turnips, Lentil-Foie Gras Composure...

Silky Parsnip Bisque, Walnut Oil, Chives

~

Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras & Sea Scallops

Hot Pomegranate Gel, Savory Apple Crisp, Cacao Nibs, Poultry Jus

~

Almond Crusted Soft Shell Crab & Grilled Aussie Blue Water Prawn

Wilted Mizuna, Heart of Palm-Kumquat-Orange Salad, Yuzu Dressing

~

Shaved Fennel, Pumello, Preserved Ginger, Green Apple Ice

~

Cepe Crusted Loin of Lamb Sous Vide

Celery Root Puree, Hedgehog Mushrooms, Eggplant "Agro Dolce"

Thumbelina Carrot Glace, Syrah Salt and a Mosto Cotto Jus

~

Tasting of Chocolate...

Jivara-Praline "Pave" and Chocolate Swirl Ice Cream

Manjari Silk, Hazelnuts and Douglas Fir Ice Cream

various winter inspired garnishes

~

mignardises

Last Bites of 09'...

Foie Gras "Two Ways"
Honey Bunches of Oats Crusted, Quince, Hazelnuts and Balsamic
Silky Mousse, Apples, Green Apple Mustard Vinaigrette

Here in lies the last parting bites of 2009 shot here and there on the fly while cooking for the masses. Some were part of a larger sum of a tasting...some merely for a special customer looking for a new taste...some just to satisfy our own hunger for creating something fun and tasty to energize our soul and to give our passions an injection of inspiration like morphine to a heroin addict. I only wish there were more of it. So this will have to keep your appetite sedated while we venture into the new year, until we figure out what to cook next! Happy New Year~

Spicy Crab & Bass Composure

Heart of Palm, Pumello, Yuzu Kosho Drizzle, Frozen Elderflower-Fennel Lozenge

Seared Sea Scallop, Leeks, Trout Roe, Potato-Garlic Ice Cream

Watercress "Bisque"

Warm Potato-Truffle-Bacon Salad, Truffle Dressing, Micro Celery

Succulent Lobster Bisque "Cappuccinos"

Hawaiian Monchong Sous Vide

Quail Breast, Pumpkin Gnocchi, Salsify Puree, Squash, Bacon Dust and Squash Juice

Seared Great Lakes Walleye

Roasted Quail, Butternut Squash, Squash Gnocchi, Bacon-Truffle Dashi Broth

Happy New Year...

To everyone the world over! May this new year be filled with happiness, prosperity, good health and the desire to create something exciting and with your heart and soul. This year has been a tough one on me personally and I could not have waited much longer for this new year to start! As I sit and sift through my magazines and books piled up on my desk that I never ever have enough time to get to during the holiday rush, I search for new inspirations and ideas. Concepts and thoughts that provoke others. Shades of flavor and nuances of texture. What do I want to do....? Start over. At any rate, the next few weeks will surely serve as a playground for those new ideas to surface and manifest themselves onto the menu or for special events, tastings and chef's tables. And to think...it has been now 10 years since the birth of Y2K! Man, how much has changed and yet really while looking back through time...not much at all. In good cooking...

Christmas in the NW...

Merry Christmas to all of you readers, followers and enthusiasts of this blog. And even to those that are not. It is a wonderful thing for me to not to have work on Xmas day...something that I have done almost my whole entire career. There have been a few times that I was lucky enough to be in a place that was closed, but usually and mostly a huge sacrifice for my family. Today is sunny and chilly in Seattle, yet magical, and after last year's snow storm a few days prior keeping everyone at bay(and hundreds of thousands of dollars in revenue lost) a welcomed sight. Today is a day that one should not work, although I realize that things must muscle forward and there is a need for people at gas stations, grocery stores, patrolling the streets and manning the hospitals etc for us to survive in a sense, but you get my drift. Cooking during these times are fun and soothing for the soul. They allow for one's creativity to shine and be expressed in a different light, outside that of the "restaurant". And although I have not cooked yet since being off,(other than a simple panzanella salad) I look forward to it with great anticipation! So, here is wishing you all a great time at home(or not) with you and yours, searching for your own souls' soothingness and stimulation of creativity. Happy holidays, good times and good cooking...

Inertia of Chaos...

That is what I have dubbed the “energy of the moment” in the kitchen this month. That, and the name of my future metal band…yea right! You never know. Maybe for my sons perhaps. The inertia as it is, does happen quite rapidly and like clockwork each day and at times seems to almost flow out of control…totally with a mind of its own! That is the chaotic part of it all. Controlled chaos for sure. We are surely grateful for the business we have had thus far and we all know that this year has been extremely tough on most everyone, regardless of business. Up until the middle of August, it seemed very dismal and uninspiring to say the least with not much light in sight. No craft. No r&d. No creative process and relatively no inspiration. Sheer work with less bodies than we should to do it right. What has saved us however is the desire, motivation and professionalism to succeed and the determination to find new inspiration for our chosen field in the midst of the madness. At any given time one would wonder which restaurant will be shuttered next? Which chef will swallow that proverbial 45? Watching our resources very sharply and without unnecessary “slush”, we persevered and weathered the storm. Now, as we see ourselves immersed in the throws of hoards of mouth-watering folks ready for great food and libations, we are excited and thankful, albeit not as seasoned as we would like to be. It is so mentally hard to be in the middle of a busy service and see out of the corner of your eye, a team member f* something up and not be able to go fix it or coach them through it. We rely on many and we expect great results and passion from all, but in the end the reality is, not everybody shares the same level of passion. Everybody is busy…everybody is trying to just get through another day…and everybody is doing the best they can~ hopefully.
That is where the inertia of chaos comes into play. Watching it unravel is exhilarating and trying to control it is even more so. The food though of late has been tasty as we are in the heart of winter cooking. Very, very savory. We started several new menus right at the beginning of December. Here are some snapshots of the dishes and tastes….at least of what I recall...

*Apple-Oat Dumplings with Douglas Fir Honey and Smoked Pecans
*Venison Hash, Wild Mushrooms, Onion Soubise
*Scallops & Braised Pork Belly Sous Vide, Brown Butter Potatoes, Leeks and Parsnip Jam
*Mostarda Brushed Wild Sea Bass, Black Olive-Pumpkin Polenta, Spaghetti Squash and Quince
*Anson Mills Polenta, Hedgehog Mushrooms, Brussel Sprout-Walnut-Caramelized Garlic
*Parsnip-Golden Raisin Soup
*Braised Shortrib & Horseradish Terrine, Mustard Crème Fraiche, Apples and Walnuts
*Ahi Tuna Rolls with Mango, Hearts of Palm, Yuzu Kosho Marinade and Citrus Dressing
*Seared Scallops, Chive Spatzle, Persimmons-Almond Compote, Vadouvan Butter
*King Salmon Sous Vide, Butternut Squash, Citrus Salad, Tangerine Jus
*Praline Chocolate “Pave”, Figs, Hazelnuts and Praline Ice Cream
*Warm Apple “Crunch”, Cinnamon-Oat Streusel and Douglas Fir Ice Cream