1.07.2006

A Degustation of Winter...

A Flight of Tartines.....



during the winter months, we feature black trumpet mushrooms frequently. I love the woodsy and robust flavor. Here they are paired with a savory squash and pepper "crouton" with caramelized garlic, potato mousseline and chives. It has a drizzle of a fig-balsamic reduction over it. A wonderful start to a hearty meal and a great interplay of a progressive hors d' oeuvre tasting.


Terrine of Braised Oxtails & Foie Gras...

This terrine variation is a constant addition to some of our tastings in this winter season as the earth is depleted of a lot of it's possessions due to the weather's harsh domination. The terrine itself is comprised of slow braised oxtails, marinated first in savory herbs, evoo, garlic, mirepoix and curing spices. After cooking, it is picked diligently and combined with fresh chopped herbs, seared foie gras, shallots and a touch of it's braisage then packed firmly into a mold. It is served with a allumette of pumpkin salad composure, tossed in a bit of shallot vinaigrette, savory squash cake, roasted garlic-potato ice cream, micro burgundy amaranth from the chef's garden and a reduction of Pedro Ximenez vinegar and Walnut oil.

Foie Gras as a dessert as an appetizer...

if there is a combination of ingredients, given to us by nature and a labor of love, this has to be some of the most satisfying gatherings out there during the "cold war". Here we have made a play on dessert and back again to savory with a pumpkin cake made savory by adding shallots, herbs, pepper, salt and evoo then quick griddled to warm before placing a spiced cranberry jam flanked alongside. The hudson valley foie gras is seasoned, scored and quick seared in a hot pan and placed on top with some bitter frisee to offset the sweetness. The foie is adorned with toasted pumpkin seeds and fleur de sel de Guerande. A fuyu persimmons coulis and kumquat confiture is piped and dropped around. This dish was originated by one of our sous chef's; Tyler Hefford Anderson who has a great understanding of cooking by sense of taste and palate as well as technique! I truly dedicate this to his skill and craftsmanship.

Hawaiian Kampachi, which is very similar in taste and texture to hamachi, is a deep water fish from Hawaii, off the coast of Oahu. My friend, Scotty Fraser from Norpac fisheries, sends us such wonderful species, it is sometimes hard to choose which to use. This fish lends itself very well to the heartiness and savory approach to fish cookery during the winter months. Here we have paired it with smoky cinnamon-cap mushrooms, sweet caramelized onions, braised leeks, and a heady black truffle emulsion. It is finished off with a garniture of micro purple kholrabi and a "jus de poisson" to add an earthy and peppery bite!

Zinfandel braised Veal Cheeks are in a word, sublime! It is here where all good things come to those who wait. A dish so rich and wonderful that even God himself would stand in line for them, at the front of course! I am not real religious, but this can be a religious experience and those who have eaten them, cooked correctly, are in agreement that they are awesome. They are first marinated in evoo, aromats, herbs and a bit of cooked off zinfandel. They are then seared, and braised with all the marinade, lot's of Zin, veal stock, or grand jus and lot's of love for about 4 hours, or until quite tender. To plate, we serve them with caramelized chestnuts, a winter chanterelle croustade, a composure of offal, all nestled in goodness, a smooth and silky celery root or celeriac puree, and a natural reduction of the cuisson given a boost of enrichment with Walla Walla sweet onion mustard.

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